Yep, I’m in Georgia
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A Chance Meeting
Having left the hotel of slightly dubious character, I was still looking for a place to relax for 2 nights, at a price I was prepared to afford, to rest the body. Each mile was an effort; I have been a little low for a few days and have boosted my emotions by talking to friends at home on Skype, (Thanks all). 75 km to Rize, or 30 km to Surmene. I was umming and erring. Then roaring past me a Triumph Tiger. Loaded to the gunwales, the tip of which were 2 tyres, he’s got to be going a long way I thought, I noticed the number plate, British, I was up waving like a mad man, the bike was slowing anyway and ground to a halt, I rock up and its Phil. We decide to go to the next sensible stop for a tea. He is the first tourer I have met since entering Turkey (no long distance cyclists yet). Cycling round the world in aid of the Anthony Nolan Trust and in memory of Alison Waring.
Phil and his Triumph Tiger
We talked for about an hour, the petrol station we were in kept bringing us teas and biscuits, then when we went to pay they did the toss the head upwards and tut, which means no. So a cheap stop.
What a great antidote to my mood, thanks Phil I am feeling a little more uppity now. And ride safe.
I decided to split the difference and head for Of, a total distance of about 50km, now relaxing in a hotel for 40TL (about 17 Euro) too much but I’m staying for 2 days and that’s it, costing less but so much more salubrious than the last one. – Decision made!
Kofte tonight.
In the pictures below Recep pimped the bike and sewed my shorts
Ibrahim sewed a backing onto my favourite Rafa shirt (the green one the the orange stripe of course) to stop the holes from getting bigger. In Fatsa
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Kofte Country
The thought was there: -
Along the road many had told me that the Kofte in Akcaabat was the best around, so I thought, cruise into Akcaabat find a hotel, stay for 2 nights as I’m feeling a little tired and needed a day off. Then go out to a local kofte bar and have the aforementioned food in vast quantities, stagger back to the hotel with distended stomach for a good night’s sleep.
Reality is always slightly different:-
Akcaabat I could only find one hotel and it was 50TL a little above my price range. I moved on, a little unhappily as it was a good hotel. Trabzon was 10km down the road, it was starting to rain. (Brilliant) So I followed the signs, then the signs for the centre somehow I missed the center and shot out the other side, quite hard to do in a city with a population of 200,000+. Straight into the industrial area, there were hotels, I was knackered, and they were particularly sleazy looking. The dual carriageway was near impossible to cross. I went for the first hotel, was offered 60TL for one night (already reduced form 80TL) I was walking out but he enticed me with 50TL. So I’m in, I’m sure the porter said ‘and do you want a girl with the room’ but it was in Turkish, it may have been ‘where’s my tip!’
Oh joy.
Posted in Asia
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Back to School
I woke up in the glad of the pines, the romance of sleeping under trees is slightly take away when it rains and after it stops raining the trees still drop water onto the tent for hours after, obviously keeping me awake!
The road for the first few miles was reasonable then it turned into a quagmire, not helped by the torrential downpour, in Niksar they had told me that I could not pass the road as I was on a bike, advice which I promptly ignored. I told them that as long as my legs were strong enough the bike would go over any terrain. (Not exactly true as sand could be a bit troublesome!) I was right as usual, the road was bad but not that bad, the rocks, rubble, mud, and rain were not helping but not stopping me.
The rough road finally ended and turned into a metalled road. I had no idea where I was on the map and finally asking someone they said Korgan was still 20 km further on, I was gutted, I thought I was near the sea which was a further 35 km after that.
I rocked into Korgan drenched looking like the proverbial drowned rat. Asked at the first tea shop about a hotel, none here they said. But a guy came out and said I could stay with him, we had tea then after a few hours, yes hours, waiting and numerous teas, I was starting to shiver, he eventually took me to the teachers accommodation, I had stayed at these before. I am so grateful to the bloke who I took no pictures of or got his name.
I did have to ask them through Google translate that in needed a shower, now! The teachers phoned the English teacher who was at home; he thought they were having a joke with him, phoning him on a Sunday afternoon telling him about a bedraggled Englishman on a bike staying in the teachers’ house – sounds a bit farfetched to me.
Ali – the English teacher asked me to talk to his school children the next morning, how could I refuse. 09.00 the organised time to meet.
Ali duly turned up and took me to the head teacher. I remember the feeling under different circumstances when I was at school, mainly involving a cane!
I attended 2 classes answering questions and talking about my trip. The students were brilliant: Nagihan, Seda, Hatice, Ruveyda, Birsen, Asli, Kubra, Songul, in the first class and Kubra, Zehra, Tugba, Caner, Sinem, Eda, Sema, Rifiye, in the second. During the break between the classes I played table tennis with the staff – they beat me- Obviously.
Unfortunately they all know my age now and were interested in Luke my son, if Luke was married, if I was married, a plethora of questions fired at me. Well behaved, just, quiet never. Sad that I was leaving, of course. I wish I could stay longer; we forget that they have never spoken to a native English speaker before; the standard of their English was excellent considering this. I should have stayed longer.
A quick last talk to the head teacher and on my way.
Thank you to Ali the head and other teachers of Korgan High School for making me so welcome.
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- Click for my first school visit
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Richer than a Honey Covered Baklava with Cream
Rich, what does that mean anyway?
The last Breakfast Banu and Deniz
I had spent my week with Deniz and Banu, I was still reeling with the wealth of generosity afforded to me.
The next day while waiting out a thunderstorm, the workers sat around the table and brought in a roasting tray full of chicken, tomatoes and peppers, smothered in oil, I offered to move while they ate but they demanded I stay and eat.
What a vista
Breakfast with Simsec
But 2 days later I had got to the end of the day and was casually eyeing up a plot of land to pitch the Hilleberg when a guy came out of the a cement works and started to talk to me. I casually mentioned I was looking for a spot to pitch, he just said, ‘stay here’. Simsec worked as a digger driver and security guard at the cement works, 10 days on, 2 days off. There were 4 beds on the cabin; with an attached shower room (I was ecstatic) only me and
Top electric stove not working, right gas stove fires up nicely, and bottom electric heater turned on its side to cook toast.
Simsec staying. I did eye up the mattress slightly dubiously and he immediately slung on a clean sheet. After my shower, he brought out some aubergines and meat in a foil carton, reminiscent of those you get at Chinese takeaways, all cooked up on a very debatable cooking appliance. We ate together with bread. The next morning he cooked up an omelette with sausage and the never ending tea.
Leaping a the Lion Gate
Then to make a full spectrum of wealth within my life I visited the Hittite capital of Hattusa. (Look them up you heathens, if you don’t know) It’s a steep climb round the site, the security guards said I wouldn’t be able to make it, little did they know. Although Hattusa is not as visibly impressive as any of the Egyptians sites (the climate here is much more detrimental to preservation) to visit such a monument is exhilarating enough.
I am embracing a wealth of a different kind, happy to have given up that never ending desire for the another gadget, the mobile phone upgrade and the constant peer pressure to have the next best thing, and given up TV, oh the joy.
All right that last bit is not quite true as I’m always trying to upgrade my bike.
2 new slide shows in the Photo/Asia/Turkey album
